Nose to Tail: Clean Teeth, Healthy Pets

By Kimberly Konopka, BS, AS, CVT, ESMT, Program Director of the Veterinary Nursing Program at Johnson College

Originally published in the February 25, 2022 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/nose-to-tail-clean-teeth-healthy-pets/article_f6d332b5-7fb1-5f61-bf52-b1f370ed368f.html

We brush our teeth, floss, and gargle mouthwash every day to keep our teeth and mouth healthy. What about your pets’ dental care? Is it as essential to their overall health as it is ours? Those are the types of questions we recently received and will try to answer.

“My veterinarian said that my pet needs a dental exam. Is this true?”

The simple answer is YES! Our pets’ mouths are very similar to our own and need attention as well. Food particles and bacteria cause a film to form known as plaque, which then hardens to form tartar.

This is that hard yellow- to brown-colored build-up you may notice on teeth, especially the back molars. Not only is it unsightly, but without proper attention, it may lead to other health concerns.

The bacteria can also invade the gums, causing pain and inflammation known as gingivitis, leading to periodontal disease and tooth loss. There is evidence that dental disease is associated with cardiopulmonary diseases such as endocarditis, inflammation of the liver and kidney disease. This stems from the bacteria entering the bloodstream and traveling to these vital organs. A procedure called dental prophylaxis,

done by a veterinary professional, assists in helping to keep all these issues at bay.

“My pet is only 5 years old. Can I wait until he/she is older to talk to my Vet about dental health?”

Don’t wait! Issues can start in a very young pet, and it’s not uncommon for them to arise at the age of 4-5 years. How do you know if your pet needs a dental exam? During their annual wellness exam, the veterinarian may notice an issue on the visual exam and recommend scheduling the procedure.

There are also signs that your pet may show before the vet visit, which may include:

Pain: Gingivitis and dental disease cause inflammation which is painful. Unfortunately, your pets cannot verbally express that they’re in pain, and often low levels of pain go unnoticed, or your pet becomes accustomed to it over time. If the pain becomes significant enough, your pet may stop eating. You may also notice a difference or reduction in your pet’s level of play or interaction. If the mouth hurts, it makes sense that they may not want to play fetch or tug.

Halitosis, or bad breath: As dental disease progresses, you may notice halitosis. It may become so overpowering that it can be detected from several feet away!

Loss of teeth: When the bacteria invade below the gum line, it can eat away at the support structure of the tooth. This abscess may form along the root of the tooth as well. When the support structures become weak enough, the tooth will become loose and potentially fall out.

“What should I expect to occur for a dental prophylactic procedure?”

It’s far more detailed than one may think. Unfortunately, your pet is unlike a human in this respect and not willing to sit back and open wide. There are several steps involved in the process.

Pre-anesthetic blood work: Your pet will need to go under general anesthesia to have a proper dental cleaning and evaluation of the oral cavity.

Pre-dental radiographs: Like their human counterpart, your pet will have dental radiographs to fully evaluate above and below the gum line giving the veterinarian a better image of the teeth, support structures and overall health of the mouth.

Ultrasonic scaling: This is performed utilizing the same equipment your dentist uses and helps remove the plaque and tartar on the tooth surface above the gum line.

Subgingival hand scaling: Plaque and tarter that lies below the gum line is removed utilizing special hand scaling instruments, the same procedure as you would receive at the dentist.

Extractions, if necessary: This procedure can be as simple as touching a loose tooth, so it pops out, or advanced enough that it requires drills, cutting wheels, flaps and sutures. Some of those teeth have three roots.

Polishing: Veterinary polishing paste is bubblegum flavored, too. A sleeping pet doesn’t care if it’s not beef-flavored. This step serves a purpose other than making the teeth look good. The polish is slightly abrasive, making the tooth have a very smooth surface removing microscopic divots where the bacteria can cling onto, which starts the entire process over again.

Recovery: Once complete, your pet will be moved to a recovery location and closely monitored until discharge. Your veterinary staff will inform you of post-anesthesia/post dental care.

At-home dental care is easy to do and doesn’t require much time or many products. All you need to get started are pet toothpaste, which is necessary because human toothpaste is toxic to pets, and a pet toothbrush. You’re ready to go!

Nose to Tail: Keeping pets safe in winter weather

By Dr. Meg Varner-Soden, Johnson College’s Veterinary Nursing Instructor

Originally published in the January 28, 2022 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/nose-to-tail-keeping-pets-safe-in-winter-weather/article_4f559547-b8ac-53a5-a4b0-db093587b920.html

We’re starting 2022 with a new pets column to help keep your pets healthy and safe. This month, Johnson College’s Dr. Meg Varner-Soden, DVM, talks about some winter hazards that can harm your pets and what we need to do when they’re exposed to them. Let’s get started.

Ice melts

These products are typically made of salt, like potassium chloride or calcium chloride. Their purpose is to lower the freezing point of water to reduce ice formation on sidewalks and provide more traction.

Our dogs and outdoor cats are at risk of developing irritation of the paw pads, or the webbing of the skin between them, when coming into prolonged contact with these salts. They are also at risk of ingesting them — for example, licking their feet upon coming indoors, eating snow in the yard where ice melt was sprinkled, or mischievously getting into a bag of it when not securely stored.

Ingestion of small volumes can trigger gastrointestinal distress such as vomiting and diarrhea. If your pet were to eat a more substantial amount, problems like mouth ulceration or changes in the body’s electrolytes might occur. Severe derangements of the body’s sodium levels may lead to tremors or seizures.

To help minimize paw issues:

• Wipe their paws immediately upon coming back into the house.

• Teach your dog to tolerate booties on their feet for use during walks.

• Apply paw wax or balm before outings.

You can look specifically for “pet-friendly” ice melt products that are typically safer, or consider using kitty litter or sand. Please note that these products may be safer but all still carry some risk of tummy issues if ingested. Also, remember that you can control what is used on your premises but not necessarily everywhere else you and Fido will roam.

Antifreeze

This active toxic ingredient is a sweet-tasting alcohol derivative called ethylene glycol. The most common source of this is radiator coolant, but other liquids that may contain it include motor oil, brake fluid, de-icing windshield wiper fluid, wood stains, paints and solvents.

It can also hide in-home solar units, portable basketball post bases and even snow globes. Some people add antifreeze solutions in seasonally used toilet bowls (such as in cabins) to prevent them from freezing over the winter and forget about it until the warmer months. This can be especially dangerous to dogs and cats who drink from toilets!

Pet owners need to be extremely vigilant in how their antifreeze products are used and stored. Only a few tablespoons, or less if the animal is small, may be a fatal dose. When ingested, ethylene glycol quickly leads to life-threatening acute kidney failure that may be fatal by 72 hours post-exposure.

Clinical signs that an animal may show during toxicosis include depression, disorientation and drunken behavior. Also look for excessive drooling, vomiting, increased drinking and urination, and possibly seizures and coma. A correct and prompt diagnosis is essential, and antidote treatment must be started within three hours for cats and eight hours for dogs, so get to your veterinarian as soon as possible. Those with families should realize that this can also be a toxin to curious young children.

Hypothermia

Most of our beloved companions are acclimated to the indoors with us. Chances are, if you are cold and need to bundle up, so do they. Your pet can become hypothermic if too much time is spent outdoors, unprotected during frigid weather.

Dogs and cats have a higher average body temperature than humans do. Neglectful exposure to the elements is such a concern that a Pennsylvania law known as Libre’s Law was signed by Governor Tom Wolf in 2017, outlawing the tethering of pets out of doors for more than 30 minutes during freezing weather, meaning under 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

Prolonged low body temperature wreaks havoc in the body in many ways, ranging from harming the heart and blood vessels to debilitating the immune system and the brain. Frostbite is a possibility. Clinical signs of hypothermia include shivering, lethargy, disorientation and incoordination, rigid muscles and decreased heart and respiratory rates.

These issues can progress to a state of shock, brain impairment, coma and death. The best treatment for this condition is prevention. Careful external rewarming is needed to counteract this situation, and prompt veterinary attention may be necessary in the more severe cases.

From Headlights to Taillights: Getting Ready for Winter

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director

Originally published in the November 26, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-getting-ready-for-winter/article_fff3569a-a9c4-5855-90f1-9f52d5313b37.html

It is truly amazing just how quickly time passes. If you follow this column, you’ll remember that last fall, we addressed the topic of getting your vehicle ready for the upcoming winter weather. Since this is an important topic, and another winter is about to arrive, I want to revisit the topic. This year, I’ll go through the main things that need to be inspected, adjusted, repaired, or replaced before winter hits.

Before I get into the winterization checklist, I would like to answer a question I received recently about the vehicle’s HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) system operation. The question is: “Why do my windows fog up when my heater is on?”

We used to see this condition frequently years ago when most vehicle HVAC systems were manually operated. These systems are now mainly automatic, so we rarely see this condition now in newer car models.

This condition happens because of the way the system operates when the heat mode is selected. There is a fresh air door that is supposed to be open in this mode. If that door is closed, the air circulating through the vehicle will be the air contained in the passenger compartment. This recycled air is always much too humid, meaning too much moisture compared to fresh air. Thus, the windows fog up.

Older vehicles usually have a knob or lever on the control panel that allows you to manually turn or push to select either fresh or recirculated air. In the heat mode, you should always choose the fresh air position. Fresh air will eliminate the fogging condition.

If you experience this fogging condition on more recent models, where the HVAC system is automatically controlled, there may be a problem with the fresh air door being stuck closed. That can happen if the motor that operates the door fails, or the door may be bound to a point where the motor cannot move the door at all. In that case, unless you are very mechanically inclined, contact a repair shop to diagnose and repair the problem. I hope this answers our reader’s questions.

Now let’s get to the vehicle winterization checklist.

1. Check your battery. If you have a multimeter, you can check your battery for available voltage, but you cannot check if it can hold a load, unless, of course, you are a master at using your meter. The meter can also check if your charging system is operating by checking the voltage across the battery terminals while the engine is running. Voltage readings while running should be around 14 volts, give or take a couple. A total battery, starting, and charging system check can be done by a qualified technician.

2. Check your tires. Most fuel stations provide air, but most of those places also charge for air. Free air can be found at Sheetz or your local Lowe’s store, usually by the contractor pick-up area. Whether you pay for the air or not, make sure the tire pressure is adjusted to the specification found on a sticker in the driver’s door jamb. You can check your tire pressure on your own. And remember, check and adjust the spare tire pressure.

3. Check your engine coolant protection. It will make sure the freezing temperatures of a Northeastern Pennsylvania winter will not freeze your engine coolant, which could be disastrous to your engine. You can perform this check using a very inexpensive tool purchased at any auto parts store. The perfect mixture of coolant and water for our area is a 50/50 mix. This mixture will protect the coolant from freezing up to -34°F. Now that’s cold! You can do this check by yourself.

4. Check and top off all the rest of your vehicle’s fluids. The fluids include the washer solvent. Contrary to some opinions, the washer solvent is not an artesian well and does not refill itself. Other fluids to check include the transmission fluid and engine oil. As far as these checks, a vehicle owner can tackle them.

As far as prioritizing the checklist, you don’t necessarily have to follow any order, but all the checks should be completed. If you feel comfortable doing the checks, then, by all means, go for it. If you are not, have your repair shop check off the list. Either way, your vehicle will be ready for the winter of 2021-22.

From Headlights to Taillights: Wax on, wax off

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director

Original published in the October 29, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-wax-on-wax-off/article_d5c6cd28-00a5-54f7-96ed-b6b0fb0e7793.html

As October turns into November, some of you, like me, want the warm weather to stay all year round. At the same time, others are upset that cold weather is not here yet. Either way, your vehicle needs to be protected from the elements in warm and cold weather. This leads me to a few questions we received about protecting vehicles from anything Mother Nature throws at us during the different seasons.

Our first question is, “Is it still necessary to wax my car to protect it from the elements?”

The simple answer is yes. I recommend protecting your vehicle’s painted finish if you want it to look good years down the road. If it is not protected somehow, the rust will slowly eat away at the metal until it’s a heap of rust sitting in your driveway. That is an exaggeration, of course, but only slightly because rust can ruin a vehicle.

“If it is necessary, what kind of wax should I use on my vehicle?” is our second question.

The answer to this question is not so simple. Everyone has different opinions on how to treat their vehicle, so it’s tough to tell you what is best. Let me explain.

If you treat your vehicle like one of the family then you keep it clean (wash it), keep it healthy (maintain it, change the oil), and protect it (wax or protective coating). With proper care, the vehicle remains in good shape for a long time.

If all you care about is that your vehicle gets you from point A to point B and you don’t spend much time on car care, your vehicle will not keep the good looks it had at the beginning and may start looking bad very quickly. If this is you, it’s OK because not everyone has the time to treat a vehicle like family in this hectic world.

If you are the type to take very good care of your car or truck, there is a variety of different waxes or coatings that have been proven to keep it looking great for a long time. Some are very easy to apply, and others are not so easy. It all depends on how hard you want to work to reach your end goal of protecting your vehicle from the elements.

If you go to an auto parts store, you will see an entire aisle dedicated to products that protect everything from the paint to the dashboard and windows of your vehicle. The price range also varies as much as the product selection does.

I recommend doing some research before you purchase a wax or coating. You may want to google “what are the 10 best car waxes” to find out what is available. Then, watch YouTube videos to view the application process. This research will help you determine what product to buy and the degree of difficulty in applying that product. Because there are so many products to choose from, the choice can be tricky.

Our third question is, “I took care of my last vehicle regularly. I washed, waxed, and so on, but the body panels still rusted. Did I do something wrong or use the wrong product?”

I don’t believe you did anything wrong or used the wrong product. Unfortunately, our vehicles are subjected to a multitude of elements that can destroy metal body panels. Without knowing how often you applied the product, I can only speculate you followed the instructions on when to use it and how to apply it for the best results. If you followed the instructions, there isn’t anything more you could have done.

A major headache in keeping a vehicle looking good is stone chips. They happen when stones are kicked up in traffic and hit your car or truck. A small stone chip, if left unrepaired, can result in a fender rotting away right before your eyes. Stone chips need to be touched up as soon as they are detected, so rust is not given a chance to start.

You would think vehicles would last forever if you could bubble wrap them and keep them in the garage every minute you own them. But even if you did that, your vehicle would still rust because it would attract moisture, and then rust would eventually take over.

Bottom line, no matter the season, cold or warm, protect your vehicle. Choose a product that fits the level of protection you want to give your vehicle and always follow the instructions. Plus, applying an extra coat or two will provide your car or truck additional protection to keep it looking good longer. In the words of Mr. Miyagi from the film Karate Kid, “Wax on, wax off.”

From Headlights to Taillights: Preparing for Summer Travel

By Mark Kozemko ’79, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director

Original published in the July 23, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-preparing-for-summer-travel/article_ada5ef18-e4fa-5a89-ba64-d81265ceadf6.html

Last month, we answered questions about what items to pack into a car care survival kit you’d take with you on a drive-away vacation. According to the response we received, it looks like you still have a few questions about getting your vehicle ready for summer travel. This month, we’ll cover some of the more specific questions we received over the past few weeks. Let’s get started.

Our first question is, “I don’t travel except for our annual vacation to the shore. Over the past three vacations, we used the same vehicle. Why is my fuel mileage different every year?”

There are several reasons your fuel mileage varies from year to year with the same vehicle.

First, I hope you’re performing a pre-travel inspection on your vehicle, including tire condition and air pressure, oil condition and level, transmission fluid condition and status and more.

If you are not performing that inspection, I highly recommend you do. Improper tire pressure alone can reduce fuel mileage significantly. Old or incorrect engine oil can lose its ability to lubricate correctly, causing the engine to work harder and use more fuel. The same goes for transmission fluid. If the transmission is not shifting correctly, your fuel mileage may decrease. The bottom line is, make sure all your fluids are up to par before you travel.

Second, road conditions can factor in your vehicle’s ability to get the most miles from a gallon of fuel. The friction between the road surface and the tire can cause unnecessary drag and make the engine work harder. The constant stopping and starting in construction areas also factors into decreased fuel mileage.

Third, driving habits are a huge factor in getting good to excellent fuel mileage. The more you follow posted speed limits and start from a stop, smoothly, you will see an increase in your fuel mileage.

For example, I recently purchased a new truck — used, but new to me. It has an eight-cylinder engine, as did my old truck, but slightly bigger. My old truck got a whopping 11-12 miles per gallon with my driving habits. With the same driving habits, mostly highway driving, the new truck consistently gets about 3-4 mpg better. When I drive to and from work, 20 miles each way, through the small cities and towns, follow speed limits and don’t push my engine to outperform itself, the truck is getting just under 20 mpg, which is a lot better than the 11-12 mpg I was getting with my old truck.

If you are a seasoned driver, you may ask yourself, isn’t highway mileage supposed to be more than city mileage? It’s written on vehicle window stickers that way. The fact is, newer models have engine and transmission options designed to, if driven correctly, increase fuel mileage.

“Why does my air conditioning cut out when I accelerate?” is our second question.

More than likely, this issue is a cracked or broken vacuum line to your heating, ventilation and air conditioning control unit. If you pay close attention when your air conditioning cuts out, you’ll notice it doesn’t really cut out. The airflow changes direction. It may be redirected to the floor or defroster vents.

This redirection happens because when you accelerate, you decrease the vacuum that your engine creates. When you reach cruising speed, or let up a bit on the accelerator pedal, you’ll probably notice the airflow returns to the dashboard vents.

You can self-diagnose this issue if you’re a Mr. or Ms. Fix It, or, you can have your repair garage look into it. Newer vehicles have electronic controls that virtually eliminate this issue. Of course, other things can go wrong in these systems, so keep your eyes on them.

Our third and last question of the month is “How do I know the correct tire pressure for my vehicle?”

Usually, the manufacturer puts a sticker in the driver’s door jamb that indicates the correct tire pressure. If you don’t see it there, it may be stuck to the fuel door or in the fuel filler neck area. If a tire pressure sticker is not on your vehicle, the best thing to do is to google the make and model of your vehicle to find out proper tire pressure. Whatever you do, DO NOT fill to the maximum pressure found on the tire itself. It is not the correct operating pressure and may cause a dangerous situation. Go by what is listed on the sticker, not the tire itself.

I hope everyone enjoys the rest of the summer. Drive sensibly and stay safe.

From Headlights to Taillights: Bells and Whistles

By Mark Kozemko ’79, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director

Original published in the April 30, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage. https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-bells-and-whistles/article_d79d0f20-6e24-5669-be24-be5127360161.html

Did you ever get into a vehicle to test drive it and wonder, “Why does this vehicle have so many gadgets? What do they all do? Will I ever use them all?”

I know it sounds funny, but many new car buyers don’t even use some of the standard options, never mind all the extra “bells and whistles.” This month I’m fielding questions about what some of these extra options — or gadgets as I call them — are and how they work.

Before I get into the questions, I want to point out that the reason new vehicles come with an abundance of these options is mainly due to consumer demand. When manufacturers receive a high number of requests from their modern, tech-savvy customers for a specific option, they respond, as long as the request is within reason.

Our first question is, “What is adaptive cruise control and how does it work?”

Adaptive cruise control allows a driver to not only set a speed to travel but also set a specific distance between their vehicle and the vehicle in front of them. This option doesn’t come in all vehicles yet, but as we all know, when it works in certain vehicles, it won’t be long until most manufactures will offer it as standard equipment.

Once the driver inputs the cruise control settings mentioned above, other than steering, the vehicle is basically in control. When cruising, if the vehicle in front of you slows, your vehicle will reduce speed to maintain a safe distance. When the vehicle in front either moves out of the way or speeds up, your vehicle will accelerate to return to your preset speed. This is accomplished by a combination of sensors and cameras. This option is often paired up with additional options like lane-keeping assistance, forward collision warning, pedestrian detection and automatic emergency braking.

I can tell you from experience, driving a vehicle equipped with adaptive cruise control is awesome. If you have an extended commute, you may want to check out vehicles with this option.

The second question is, “What are active headlamps?”

This active headlamp option, which was designed to give the driver better visibility when traveling on winding roads, gives your headlights the ability to move to the right or left from the straight-ahead position. The headlight movement is accomplished using motors controlled by sensors in the steering system. The sensors send a signal to a control unit telling it what direction the driver is steering, and, in turn, activates the motors to move the light assemblies in that direction.

At this time, this option is only available on select models and is not very useful unless your commute involves very winding roads.

The third and final question this month is, “Is the Pro Trailer Backup Assist™ option worth getting for my Ford truck?”

Per Ford.com, a driver enters a few measurements into the Pro Trailer Backup Assist™ system, then a camera tracks the trailer position while you’re backing up your truck and guiding the trailer. You rotate the knob left or right in the direction you want the trailer to go while the system controls the steering wheel.

It all depends on your comfort level when backing up your trailer. If you are new at trailer backing, then this option is definitely for you. If you’ve had your trailer for a while and used it several times, I don’t believe an option like this is worth it.

I have a great deal of experience towing. I’ve towed everything from a 53-foot trailer to a short 15-foot water buffalo when I was in the Navy. It was always more difficult for me to back up the shorter pieces of equipment than the larger ones. I still do my fair share of towing cars, boats and Jet Ski trailers. I think I would find myself fighting with a truck that is trying to do something for me that I am very comfortable doing myself.

Keep in mind that all of these options or gadgets, as I call them, come with a price tag. Always weigh the pros and cons of any option to determine if it is worth it to you when buying a vehicle. Don’t be afraid to ask the “What is this? What does it do? Will I use it?” questions you have. Make sure you get the answers and try out every option and gadget before you take any money out of your pocket.

From Headlights to Taillights: Are hybrids worth the hype?

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director. Originally published in the March 26, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-are-hybrids-worth-the-hype/article_8c33a70b-c359-5f31-a50b-964079f2dd55.html

One of the most pressing issues in our society and the world is finding ways to save the environment. One way the automotive industry is helping is by producing more fuel-efficient and alternate fuel vehicles. For our conversation today, we’re going to focus on one type of fuel-efficient vehicle, the hybrid.

Before we get to the questions, let’s define the word hybrid. It means something that is made by combining two or more different things to make one thing. Since I’m a dog lover, please allow me to use this analogy. Golden doodles are considered a hybrid dog breed because a breeder had a golden retriever mate with a poodle. Thus, the extremely popular golden doodle breed was born.

When we say a vehicle is a hybrid, we’re referring to a vehicle that has an internal combustion engine/gasoline engine and an electric motor working together. This allows the vehicle to run economically and helps lower the vehicle’s emissions, which is better for the environment

Now that we know what a hybrid vehicle is, let’s get to some of the questions that were sent in on the subject.

Our first question is, “Will I see a substantial saving on fuel if I drive a hybrid?”

Yes, you will save money because the hybrid engine has an increased fuel mileage compared to a gasoline engine vehicle. It also releases less emissions. According to https://www.fueleconomy.gov/ the estimated miles per gallon on a 2017 Toyota Prius 1.8L 4 cylinder was 52mpg highway and 50mpg city and the estimated miles per gallon of a 2018 Toyota Camry Hybrid 2.5L 4 cylinder was the same at 52mgp highway and 50mpg city. In this technician’s opinion, that’s pretty good fuel mileage. A standard 2018 gasoline only 2.5L 4 cylinder Camry fuel mileage compares at 32mpg highway and 28mpg city.

Our second question is, “Does a hybrid vehicle have to be plugged in to charge the battery?”

Even though the electric motor in a hybrid vehicle runs on electricity stored in the vehicle’s battery, it does not get plugged in for recharging. Hybrid vehicles have what is called a regenerative braking system, which means when brakes are applied, the kinetic energy created from braking is used to recharge the battery. Also, whenever the gasoline engine is running, the battery is being recharged. If necessary, you can bring the 12-volt system battery back to a fully charged state by using a typical automobile battery charger.

Our third question is, “Do hybrid vehicles cost more to maintain?”

The cost to maintain a hybrid is roughly the same or slightly lower than repairing or maintaining a regular vehicle. However, there was a time when technicians thought hybrid vehicles were very “scary” to be around, which caused service costs to be much higher. They thought this because when hybrids were new, technicians who weren’t working for the manufacturer producing them had little to no training about the technology. Now, with more manufacturers producing hybrids, they’re producing more well-trained technicians who follow proper procedures. All of this allows technicians to safely and properly perform routine maintenance and repairs without being afraid of the technology.

Our fourth question is, “I hear about the Toyota Prius all the time, but what other hybrid vehicles are available?”

While the Prius was one of the first hybrids introduced and continues to be on top of the best hybrids lists, other manufacturers have and continue to produce hybrids. There are now over 20 different models. Hyundai has the Ioniq. Kia has the Niro. In addition to the Prius, Toyota has three other models: the Prius Prime, Corolla and Camry. There are also hybrid SUVs available from Mitsubishi, Lexus, BMW, Acura and Volvo.

Our last question is, “Is it worth it to purchase a hybrid vehicle?”

For many people in our area, the answer is, probably not. In most cases, hybrids end up costing you more money than buying a gas-powered car. The purchase price of a hybrid is higher because of the technology used to build the vehicle. Yes, you may receive a tax break when you purchase a hybrid but then you have higher insurance rates because of the cost of the vehicle. There is also a performance issue. Hybrids are usually quite slow and may create dangerous situations, especially during highway driving. They also have diminished fuel efficiency in the cold weather and we all know how cold winters can be in Northeastern Pennsylvania.

Deciding to purchase a hybrid vehicle should be done the same way you decide on which gasoline vehicle to buy. You have to research all the pros and cons, not just the amount of money you might be able to save at the pump if you buy a hybrid.

At the end of the day, you have to like what you’re buying and feel safe when you and your golden doodle head out on the open road.

From Headlights To Taillights: Springing Ahead With Vehicle Maintenance

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director. Originally published in the February 26, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage. https://bit.ly/30cbvdk

It’s been a snowy February, but per Punxsutawney Phil, spring is on its way. It’s just going to take a little while longer to get here. As we’re preparing to say goodbye to snow and hello to warmer weather, we’re receiving questions about car maintenance that may be required after the long, cold winter. Let’s get to them so you can plan ahead.

Our first question is, “Should my car battery be replaced after the long winter we’re experiencing this year?”

Before you go and replace your battery, I recommend having it inspected and tested first. As I said in a previous column, your vehicle battery is one of — if not the most — important component to get your vehicle through a rough winter. If you had your battery inspected and tested in the fall, you should have it re-tested. Even though it had enough life to get you through the winter, that doesn’t mean its power is stable enough to keep you going throughout the spring and into summer. Extended periods of below-freezing temperatures, which we’ve experienced this year, weaken and take a lot out of a battery. Take the time now to get a new inspection and test to determine if your battery requires replacement.

“Does my engine oil need to be changed after the cold winter months?” is our second question.

When we discussed oil change intervals in a previous column, I recommended that you keep your maintenance schedule on track throughout the year and I’m sticking with that recommendation. Oil changes are the most economical maintenance you can do to drastically extend the life of your vehicle’s engine. Don’t go beyond the recommended time or mileage between oil changes, but you can change your vehicle’s oil sooner or more often than recommended. As the vehicle owner, it’s your call on whether you think the mileage or time is close enough to put fresh oil in your engine.

“Is there such a thing as summer and winter air that I should put in my tires?” is our third question.

There is no such thing as summer or winter air. It’s just compressed air.

You can, however, have your tires inflated with nitrogen, which helps eliminate oxidation and corrosion. Nitrogen pressure in a tire will bleed off or dissipate much slower than compressed air and you’ll see slightly higher fuel mileage with it. If you’re thinking about using nitrogen, it is considered a green alternative, which means it’s better for the environment. One thing to keep in mind, with compressed air, you can check and adjust your own tire pressure. If you use nitrogen, you’ll have to find a repair shop equipped with it to adjust your pressure. It will cost you to have your tires inflated with nitrogen more than you pay for compressed air.

Our final question is actually two questions, “How do I clean the buildup of salt and chemicals that accumulated under my car over the winter?” and “Can I do it myself?”

The best way to clean the underbody of your vehicle is by using a pressure washer. Most repair shops have pressure washers that are used for a variety of jobs, including cleaning customer vehicle undercarriages. These pressure washers come in many different pressures and gallons per minute. They also have several different spray tips, from wide-angle to a pencil spray, and include attachments that connect to the hose and slide under the vehicle, making it easier for technicians to get the undercarriage clean. Prices range for this service at repair shops or body shops.

Can you do it yourself? Yes, but you’ll have to purchase a pressure washer and attachments. The consumer versions come in a variety of pressures and usually two power options, gasoline or electric. The good news is, you have choices for your individual needs and situations. Keep in mind, to make any of these pressure washers work as designed, you will need a water supply. Lastly, you have to be ready to get wet!

With these steps and, of course, guidance from your automotive technician, your vehicle will be back in shape after enduring a cold and snowy northeastern Pennsylvania winter. I’m not sure about you, but I’m hoping next year Punxsutawney Phil doesn’t see his shadow and we’ll get an early spring.

From Headlights To Taillights: Hitting the Gas

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director. Original published in the January 22, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-hitting-the-gas/article_b0832f51-7dff-5e74-929f-bd5be72d3032.html

Over the past eight months, we’ve covered a lot of topics that deal with vehicle systems.

We talked about how these systems work and what you as an owner can do to keep them working efficiently. We also cautioned you about repairs and services you shouldn’t tackle on your own. Now, let’s talk about the one thing that helps your entire vehicle run smoothly: fuel. Specifically, gasoline.

Is there a difference between summer gasoline and winter gasoline?

First of all, I want everyone to know that I am not a scientist — I am a car doctor. I will attempt to answer questions regarding gasoline in a way that everyone, including myself, can understand.

The simple answer is, yes. There is a difference between summer and winter gasoline. As vehicle owners, we have no control over the gasoline we pump except for the grade, or octane content, we choose at the pump.

The octane rating does not change from summer to winter; what does change are the additives in the gasoline blend. These additives change the fuel’s volatility, or its liability to change rapidly and unpredictably, especially for the worse. Volatility is also the tendency of a substance to evaporate at normal temperatures. All of this means that gasoline evaporation or vaporization is a bad thing.

The vapors created by vaporization cause and contribute to ground-level ozone, which contributes to smog and a variety of health issues, including respiratory problems. The volatility of gasoline is greater at higher temperatures, so summer months are more of an issue than winter months. To tame the volatility of gas in the hottest months, additives are introduced to the fuel to lower the volatility. These additives are on the costly side, so you may notice an increase in price per gallon during the summer months.

When does summer gas become winter gas and vice versa?

Per federal deadlines, winter blend fuels are to be dispensed by Sept. 15 of each year. During the colder months, the volatility of the gas may drop and cause a no-start condition in your vehicle. Depending on location, the blend is adjusted throughout the winter. Most locations switch back to summer blended gasoline around April 1. Just remember, the colder the location, the longer the winter blend will be available.

Will I notice a difference in the performance when the blends are changed?

You shouldn’t, because as we’ve said in previous columns, your vehicle is smart. It knows how to adjust to the different blends. For quite some time, vehicles have been equipped with evaporative emission control systems. This type of system stores and reuses the fuel vapors created by the evaporation process of the fuel.

By doing this, the fuel system problems of the past are virtually eliminated. Through this technology built by manufacturers, oil companies, and their refineries, the transition from summer to winter gas and winter to summer gas are ultimately unnoticeable.

I’ve seen E85 and E88 octanes at some filling stations. Are either of those blends better for my vehicle than the regular E87 octane fuel?

The E88 octane contains 15% ethanol and 85% gasoline.

If your vehicle owner’s manual doesn’t state that your vehicle can handle 15% ethanol, do NOT use it. Using this blend can cause severe damage to your vehicle’s engine. The E88 octane is approved for use in 2001 and newer vehicles. Remember, even if your vehicle is 2001 or newer, if the manufacturer does not approve E88 octane fuel, DO NOT use it.

The E85 octane has a large amount of ethanol. Anywhere from 51% to 83%. Vehicles approved to use this blend are referred to as Flex-Fuel vehicles. Normally, you will find E85 significantly cheaper at the pump. The pump price will lead you to believe that you will save money using this fuel. Nothing can be further from the truth. Using E85 in your flex-fuel vehicle will undoubtedly increase torque and horsepower, but these increases create lower miles per gallon. This means that in the long run, it is more expensive to run E85 fuel instead of regular E87.

If it were back in the day when gas was less than $.50/gal, I would run E85 in my Flex-Fuel Avalanche because I liked high horsepower and torque — two characteristics of a good hot rod. With current day prices, however, I’ll be sticking to regular E87 octane gasoline.

Now, before you head to the gas station to pump your gas, check your owner’s manual to make sure you’re buying the right type of fuel. You want your vehicle to run as efficiently as possible.