Johnson College Automotive Technology Program Receives Reaccreditation from ASE Education Foundation

The Automotive Technology program at Johnson College received reaccreditation by the ASE Education Foundation, formerly known as NATEF, and the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). The program has been reaccredited in the following areas: Engine Repair; Automatic Transmission/Transaxle; Manual Transmission and Drive Axles; Suspension and Steering; Brakes; Electrical/Electronic Systems; Heating and Air Conditioning; Engine Performance.

In order to achieve this renewed recognition, the College’s Automotive Technology program underwent rigorous evaluation by the ASE Education Foundation using nationally accepted standards of excellence in areas such as instruction, facilities, and equipment. Through the endeavors of both our program instructors and the ASE Education Foundation, Johnson College can more successfully bridge the gap between the needs of industry and classroom training to assure that students enter the workforce as well-prepared technicians.

Johnson College’s Automotive Technology program is an Associate of Applied Science degree program that prepares students as entry-level technicians in the automobile and diesel industries. Upon completion, graduates can expect to work for employers in career fields such as automotive, truck, farm and earthmoving equipment dealerships; truck, power generation and construction companies; automotive service centers; engine repair/machine shops; automotive equipment distributors; independent service garages; automotive parts manufacturers; sales representation; as well as auto insurance companies. They may also work with brake systems, transmissions, alignments and repairs; be representatives in claims, sales, and service; or become truck/fleet maintenance technicians.

To learn more about this program, visit: johnson.edu/divisions-of-study/transportation/automotive-technology.

Pictured left to right: Jim Williams ’00, Automotive Technology Instructor; Dr. Katie Leonard, President & CEO; Mark Kozemko ’79, Automotive Technology Program Director.

Enrolling Students in OBDII Emissions Training Course

Johnson College’s Continuing Education department is enrolling students into its next OBDII Emissions Training. The class will be held on the Johnson College campus in Scranton on Monday, June 27, Tuesday, June 28, and Thursday, June 30, 2022, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. The class fee to be paid to Johnson College is $180, and a study material and testing fee of $39.99 is paid directly to the PA Training Portal. For more details, visit Johnson.edu/continuingeducation, call 570-702-8979, or email continuinged@johnson.edu.

The OBDII testing monitors a vehicle’s emission control systems in real-time and can inform a licensed technician of a systemic issue the moment it occurs. The system operates through a series of indicator lights, drive cycles, trouble codes, and readiness monitors. During an inspection, an emission analyzer scan tool plugs into the diagnostic connector attached to the OBDII computer and communicates with the vehicle. The OBDII system relays whether it has discovered errors in the emission control systems to the scan tool. The emission analyzer then determines if the car is being operated according to emission standards.

Now Enrolling Students in OBDII Emissions Training Course

Johnson College’s Continuing Education department is enrolling students into its next OBDII Emissions Training. The class will be held on the Johnson College campus in Scranton on Monday, April 4, Tuesday, April 5, and Thursday, April 7, 2022, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. The class fee to be paid to Johnson College is $180, and a study material and testing fee of $39.99 is paid directly to the PA Training Portal. For more details, visit Johnson.edu/continuingeducation, call 570-702-8979, or email continuinged@johnson.edu.

The OBDII testing monitors a vehicle’s emission control systems in real-time and can inform a licensed technician of a systemic issue the moment it occurs. The system operates through a series of indicator lights, drive cycles, trouble codes, and readiness monitors. During an inspection, an emission analyzer scan tool plugs into the diagnostic connector attached to the OBDII computer and communicates with the vehicle. The OBDII system relays whether it has discovered errors in the emission control systems to the scan tool. The emission analyzer then determines if the car is being operated according to emission standards.

Now Enrolling Students in Pennsylvania State Vehicle Safety Inspectors Course

Johnson College’s Continuing Education Program is enrolling students in its next on-campus Pennsylvania State Vehicle Safety Inspectors course. Classes will be held on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. starting March 15, 2022, through March 24, 2022, with hands-on testing beginning on Monday, March 28, 2022. To learn more or enroll, visit https://johnson.edu/continuingeducation/ or contact the Continuing Education Department at 570-702-8979 or continuinged@johnson.edu. The total cost of the course is $200 for cars and light trucks. There is an additional $75 fee for other vehicle categories. 

The Pennsylvania State Vehicle Safety Inspection course requirements include 12 classroom hours, a written test, and a two-hour tactile test scheduled independently with the instructor. Students must complete all requirements before receiving certification from PennDOT. Registration is on a first-come, first-served basis according to the payment date. Class size is limited to 20 students, so participants are encouraged to register early. Applicants must be at least 18 years of age and have a valid operator’s license for each class of vehicle they intend to inspect. Classes will be held in the Automotive Center of Weaver Hall on the Johnson College campus in Scranton, PA. 

From Headlights to Taillights: Getting Ready for Winter

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director

Originally published in the November 26, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-getting-ready-for-winter/article_fff3569a-a9c4-5855-90f1-9f52d5313b37.html

It is truly amazing just how quickly time passes. If you follow this column, you’ll remember that last fall, we addressed the topic of getting your vehicle ready for the upcoming winter weather. Since this is an important topic, and another winter is about to arrive, I want to revisit the topic. This year, I’ll go through the main things that need to be inspected, adjusted, repaired, or replaced before winter hits.

Before I get into the winterization checklist, I would like to answer a question I received recently about the vehicle’s HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) system operation. The question is: “Why do my windows fog up when my heater is on?”

We used to see this condition frequently years ago when most vehicle HVAC systems were manually operated. These systems are now mainly automatic, so we rarely see this condition now in newer car models.

This condition happens because of the way the system operates when the heat mode is selected. There is a fresh air door that is supposed to be open in this mode. If that door is closed, the air circulating through the vehicle will be the air contained in the passenger compartment. This recycled air is always much too humid, meaning too much moisture compared to fresh air. Thus, the windows fog up.

Older vehicles usually have a knob or lever on the control panel that allows you to manually turn or push to select either fresh or recirculated air. In the heat mode, you should always choose the fresh air position. Fresh air will eliminate the fogging condition.

If you experience this fogging condition on more recent models, where the HVAC system is automatically controlled, there may be a problem with the fresh air door being stuck closed. That can happen if the motor that operates the door fails, or the door may be bound to a point where the motor cannot move the door at all. In that case, unless you are very mechanically inclined, contact a repair shop to diagnose and repair the problem. I hope this answers our reader’s questions.

Now let’s get to the vehicle winterization checklist.

1. Check your battery. If you have a multimeter, you can check your battery for available voltage, but you cannot check if it can hold a load, unless, of course, you are a master at using your meter. The meter can also check if your charging system is operating by checking the voltage across the battery terminals while the engine is running. Voltage readings while running should be around 14 volts, give or take a couple. A total battery, starting, and charging system check can be done by a qualified technician.

2. Check your tires. Most fuel stations provide air, but most of those places also charge for air. Free air can be found at Sheetz or your local Lowe’s store, usually by the contractor pick-up area. Whether you pay for the air or not, make sure the tire pressure is adjusted to the specification found on a sticker in the driver’s door jamb. You can check your tire pressure on your own. And remember, check and adjust the spare tire pressure.

3. Check your engine coolant protection. It will make sure the freezing temperatures of a Northeastern Pennsylvania winter will not freeze your engine coolant, which could be disastrous to your engine. You can perform this check using a very inexpensive tool purchased at any auto parts store. The perfect mixture of coolant and water for our area is a 50/50 mix. This mixture will protect the coolant from freezing up to -34°F. Now that’s cold! You can do this check by yourself.

4. Check and top off all the rest of your vehicle’s fluids. The fluids include the washer solvent. Contrary to some opinions, the washer solvent is not an artesian well and does not refill itself. Other fluids to check include the transmission fluid and engine oil. As far as these checks, a vehicle owner can tackle them.

As far as prioritizing the checklist, you don’t necessarily have to follow any order, but all the checks should be completed. If you feel comfortable doing the checks, then, by all means, go for it. If you are not, have your repair shop check off the list. Either way, your vehicle will be ready for the winter of 2021-22.

Now Enrolling Students in OBDII Emissions Training

Johnson College’s Continuing Education department is currently enrolling students into its next OBD II Emissions Training. The class will be held on the Johnson College campus in Scranton starting Monday, December 13, 2021. The class fee of $180 is paid to Johnson College and a study material and testing fee of $39.99 is paid directly to the PA Training Portal. Space is very limited. For more details visit Johnson.edu/continuingeducation, call 570-702-8979, or email continuinged@johnson.edu.

The OBDII computer monitors a vehicle’s emission control systems in real-time and is capable of informing a motorist or technician of a systemic issue the moment it occurs. The system operates through a series of indicator lights, drive cycles, trouble codes, and readiness monitors. During an inspection, an emission analyzer scan tool plugs into the diagnostic connector that is attached to the OBDII computer and communicates with the vehicle. The OBDII computer relays to the scan tool whether it has discovered errors in the emission control systems. The emission analyzer then determines whether the vehicle is being operated in compliance with emission standards.

From Headlights to Taillights: Wax on, wax off

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director

Original published in the October 29, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-wax-on-wax-off/article_d5c6cd28-00a5-54f7-96ed-b6b0fb0e7793.html

As October turns into November, some of you, like me, want the warm weather to stay all year round. At the same time, others are upset that cold weather is not here yet. Either way, your vehicle needs to be protected from the elements in warm and cold weather. This leads me to a few questions we received about protecting vehicles from anything Mother Nature throws at us during the different seasons.

Our first question is, “Is it still necessary to wax my car to protect it from the elements?”

The simple answer is yes. I recommend protecting your vehicle’s painted finish if you want it to look good years down the road. If it is not protected somehow, the rust will slowly eat away at the metal until it’s a heap of rust sitting in your driveway. That is an exaggeration, of course, but only slightly because rust can ruin a vehicle.

“If it is necessary, what kind of wax should I use on my vehicle?” is our second question.

The answer to this question is not so simple. Everyone has different opinions on how to treat their vehicle, so it’s tough to tell you what is best. Let me explain.

If you treat your vehicle like one of the family then you keep it clean (wash it), keep it healthy (maintain it, change the oil), and protect it (wax or protective coating). With proper care, the vehicle remains in good shape for a long time.

If all you care about is that your vehicle gets you from point A to point B and you don’t spend much time on car care, your vehicle will not keep the good looks it had at the beginning and may start looking bad very quickly. If this is you, it’s OK because not everyone has the time to treat a vehicle like family in this hectic world.

If you are the type to take very good care of your car or truck, there is a variety of different waxes or coatings that have been proven to keep it looking great for a long time. Some are very easy to apply, and others are not so easy. It all depends on how hard you want to work to reach your end goal of protecting your vehicle from the elements.

If you go to an auto parts store, you will see an entire aisle dedicated to products that protect everything from the paint to the dashboard and windows of your vehicle. The price range also varies as much as the product selection does.

I recommend doing some research before you purchase a wax or coating. You may want to google “what are the 10 best car waxes” to find out what is available. Then, watch YouTube videos to view the application process. This research will help you determine what product to buy and the degree of difficulty in applying that product. Because there are so many products to choose from, the choice can be tricky.

Our third question is, “I took care of my last vehicle regularly. I washed, waxed, and so on, but the body panels still rusted. Did I do something wrong or use the wrong product?”

I don’t believe you did anything wrong or used the wrong product. Unfortunately, our vehicles are subjected to a multitude of elements that can destroy metal body panels. Without knowing how often you applied the product, I can only speculate you followed the instructions on when to use it and how to apply it for the best results. If you followed the instructions, there isn’t anything more you could have done.

A major headache in keeping a vehicle looking good is stone chips. They happen when stones are kicked up in traffic and hit your car or truck. A small stone chip, if left unrepaired, can result in a fender rotting away right before your eyes. Stone chips need to be touched up as soon as they are detected, so rust is not given a chance to start.

You would think vehicles would last forever if you could bubble wrap them and keep them in the garage every minute you own them. But even if you did that, your vehicle would still rust because it would attract moisture, and then rust would eventually take over.

Bottom line, no matter the season, cold or warm, protect your vehicle. Choose a product that fits the level of protection you want to give your vehicle and always follow the instructions. Plus, applying an extra coat or two will provide your car or truck additional protection to keep it looking good longer. In the words of Mr. Miyagi from the film Karate Kid, “Wax on, wax off.”

From Headlights to Taillights: Vehicle Maintenance – Recommended or Required?

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director. Originally published in the September 24, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-vehicle-maintenance-recommended-or-required/article_4e0ed64d-ba35-5431-93f8-0808466020ca.html

As another summer goes in the record books and everyone starts to plan their winter travels, questions about vehicle maintenance continue to be on everyone’s minds. This month, we’re fielding questions from concerned vehicle owners about the infamous maintenance schedule they find in their owner’s manuals.

Our first question is, “I often wonder, do I really have to do the maintenance at every single interval on the schedule?”

If you’re scratching your head about the question, let me explain it. A typical maintenance schedule found in your vehicle’s owner’s manual will be in table form, listing mileage intervals across the top and maintenance items down the left side. The manufacturer determines the mileage intervals.

For instance, my 2017 Ram 1500 pickup mileage intervals are every 10,000 miles beginning at 20,000 miles. There is also a row with years that appears under the mileage. Some of us don’t drive as much, so maintenance is completed yearly instead of according to miles traveled.

Maintenance items that need attention range from a simple inspection of that item to total replacement. Many things don’t need to be replaced for 50,000 to 100,000 miles. Items that require regular replacing include the engine oil and filter, fuel and air filters.

Okay, now to answer the question asked: Yes, you really have to do the maintenance listed at every mileage interval. Why? Well, replacement or inspections are done at specific intervals to prevent significant repairs in the future, thus, the term, “preventative maintenance.” When preventative maintenance is performed correctly, the owner will get as much out of their vehicle as they possibly can.

If you’ve been following this column every month, you may remember me stating that engine oil changes are the cheapest maintenance you can do to prolong the life of your engine. A clean engine is a happy engine and will perform flawlessly for quite a long time. That’s just one example of preventative maintenance.

“Are all the services the same at each interval?” is our second question.

There may be certain things, such as changing the engine oil and filter that you will have to do at each interval. Other things, not so much. For example, the spark plugs in my 5.7-liter Hemi engine require replacement at 100,000 miles, so if you remember from above, the service intervals on my vehicle are every 10,000 miles. My truck will have already received somewhere around 10 maintenance services by the time I replace my spark plugs.

I want to add that this spark plug replacement requirement is different from a few decades ago, when replacements were required every year. Back then, this was called a tune-up.

Some items are inspected at each interval but do not need to be replaced until they reach the end of their useful life. For instance, an air filter may last through four service intervals if the vehicle is only driven in a clean, dust-free environment. If you drive your car or truck in very dirty or dusty situations, the filter will have to be replaced every interval due to severe usage.

Our third question is, “Can I get away with skipping any of the services?”

I guess you can, but you may hear someone tell you, “I told you so,” because something simple that needed attention at the service interval you skipped turned into a high-dollar repair later on down the road.

“Is there a more cost-effective way to maintain my vehicle so I don’t have to incur the cost of the maintenance packages?” is our fourth and final question this month.

The bottom line is that the most cost-effective way to maintain your vehicle is to follow the maintenance schedule to the letter. In the long run, the money you spend on the maintenance packages per the schedule will be significantly less than the expensive repairs that will come because you skipped one or more of your scheduled maintenances.

Keep in mind that a vehicle under warranty will always require you to follow the maintenance schedule. If a catastrophic failure should happen to your car or truck, the first thing the manufacturer will ask for is maintenance records. If maintenance hasn’t been completed per their recommended schedule, your repair will most likely come out of your pocket. Those costs can add up very quickly.

As you think about preparing your vehicle for your winter travels, make sure you know what is really recommended and required on your vehicle’s maintenance schedule. It could mean saving money and, more importantly, getting you safely to your winter destination.

From Headlights to Taillights: Towing the Line

By Mark Kozemko, Johnson College’s Automotive Technology Program Director

Original published in the August 27, 2021 edition of the Valley Advantage.

https://www.thevalleyadvantage.com/community-columns/from-headlights-to-taillights-towing-the-line/article_05518445-349e-5a52-af84-19709c71143e.html

Summertime is not only about vacation time. It’s also about summer fun. By that, I mean camping, boating, jet skiing, and the like, all of which include towing something with your vehicle.

Over the last few weeks, a few readers submitted questions about towing, so I thought we’d answer a few this month.

Our first question is, “I want to buy a boat, but I’m not sure if my vehicle will tow it. Will I have to purchase a truck or other vehicle to get my new boat to the lake?”

It’s a great question. Most people I know who tow something have a truck to pull whatever they’re hauling.

A truck or large vehicle is not always necessary, and here’s why. The first thing you need to know is the camper weight or the weight of the boat with a trailer, jet ski(s) with a trailer, or whatever you’re towing. Usually, the information is on the vessel you’re planning to pull. The camper will have only one weight to consider, but the other towable items will have their weight plus the trailer weight. The total weight of the item and its trailer, if necessary, is called the Gross Combined Weight Rating, or GCWR.

The next thing you need to know is your vehicle’s towing capacity. Your car or truck manufacturer determines the towing capacity and lists this information in the vehicle’s owner’s manual. Of course, you can always Google your year, make and model to find this information, too.

Here are a few examples of towing capacity from https://auto.howstuffworks.com/. A 2009 Toyota Camry can tow a maximum of 1,000 pounds while a 2009 Toyota 4Runner can tow a maximum of 5,000 pounds. A 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 can tow a maximum of 3,800 pounds, and a 2009 Dodge Ram 3500 can tow up to 12,300 pounds.

As you can see from the examples, your current vehicle may be enough to get you — and your summer fun vessel — to your destination with no problems. Just remember, never exceed your vehicle’s maximum towing capacity. Doing so can cause significant damage to your vehicle’s engine or transmission.

“What is tongue weight?” is our second question.

Tongue weight is the weight put on the hitch at the connection of the trailer to the vehicle. A vehicle suspension is designed to carry a certain amount of weight. The weight is mainly made up of the vehicle itself, but the suspension can take additional weight when towing. The car or truck, and a specific hitch class, can carry a certain amount of weight.

If you connect your boat or whatever is on the trailer to your vehicle and the rear of the vehicle sags where the rear bumper is close to the ground, then your tongue weight is probably too much.

Our third question is, “If the tongue weight is too high, does this mean the vehicle is not capable of towing what I have connected?”

If connecting to the vehicle causes too much sag, it most likely means your vehicle cannot tow this particular unit. But, there is a chance the boat or whatever is on the trailer is not positioned on the trailer correctly. Let me explain.

If a boat and trailer have a combined weight of 950 pounds and you’re using a 2009 Toyota Camry that can safely tow 1,000 pounds to tow it, we know the weight is under the maximum towing capacity.

However, if the tongue weight is too high, the excess weight causes the rear of the vehicle to sag excessively. This extra weight can create an unsafe driving condition. When we investigate a bit further, we find the boat is too far forward on the trailer, and this adds to the tongue weight. The boat’s position on the trailer needs to be adjusted to get the boat weight back over the wheels of the trailer. When we do this, the tongue weight and the sagging condition are corrected.

“Do I need a special tow hitch on my vehicle?” is our fourth and final question.

Tow hitches are designated by class. The class of the hitch is determined by the tongue weight capacity and the towing capacity. The hitch class goes from a Class I hitch with a tongue weight capacity of 100–150 pounds and a towing capacity of 1,000–1,500 pounds to a Class IV hitch with a tongue weight capacity of 500 pounds or more and a towing capacity of 10,000 pounds. Your vehicle’s towing capacity will determine what class hitch you should have installed to meet all the safety requirements.

Remember that safety is always first, so be safe, no matter what your choice of summer fun may be.